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Finding the Northern-origin crab vermicelli soup, hidden in an alley for over 40 years in Saigon

Báo Tuổi TrẻBáo Tuổi Trẻ19/11/2024

There is a crab vermicelli soup restaurant hidden in an alley for over 40 years in Saigon. People who come to eat praise it for its authentic Northern flavor, living up to its reputation.


Tìm vị bún ốc riêu cua gốc Bắc, núp hẻm hơn 40 năm tại Sài Gòn - Ảnh 1.

Thanh Hai crab vermicelli soup, "hidden in the alley" for more than 40 years in Saigon - Photo: Dang Khuong

Turn many corners in Ky Dong alley (HCMC) to find a crab vermicelli soup shop. According to word of mouth, the shop has been around for over 40 years. The special thing is the Northern flavor of the rustic vermicelli soup dish that has been preserved for all these years in the heart of Saigon.

Thanh Hai Crab and Snail Noodle Soup Restaurant was established in 1982. The restaurant is located in a quiet residential area with discolored buildings. The owner is Mrs. Pham Thi Hai, this year she is 72 years old.

Thanh Hai crab vermicelli soup is famous for its flavor.

Thanh Hai crab vermicelli soup is rustic and popular for 40 years.

As soon as it is served, the bowl of noodles "seduces" the diners with a rich aroma. If you pay attention, you will realize that it is the smell of crab and snail soup that has been cooked to "release all its essence".

Tìm vị bún ốc riêu cua gốc Bắc, núp hẻm hơn 40 năm tại Sài Gòn - Ảnh 2.

A bowl of vermicelli with snails covered with crab soup and fresh crispy snails - Photo: HO LAM

The broth is opaque brown. Ms. Hai shared: "I cook the broth from crab paste, star fruit, rice wine lees, etc. for a long time, so it will be fragrant and have that color."

When eating, you can feel the richness and light aftertaste of the broth. After finishing a spoonful, diners immediately want another spoonful, finding it hard to "rest their mouths".

Snails and crab soup almost covered the bowl of noodles, very fresh, especially the snails were crunchy.

Mrs. Hai shared: "I cook the same food my family has always eaten for our guests. Later, I passed on the skill to my daughter and daughter-in-law."

In a culinary group on Facebook, an account shared: "I heard Thanh Hai crab vermicelli soup has a Northern flavor. After trying it, I realized it's true to its reputation."

Thanh Hai Crab and Snail Vermicelli Soup - Video : HO LAM

The crab vermicelli soup changed location, customers couldn't find it.

Mrs. Hai said that when she was young, life in Thai Binh was difficult, so she was used to going to the fields every day to catch crabs and snails. From the "results" she got, her family often cooked crab noodle soup for the whole family to eat, and then she learned to do the same.

In 1980, Mrs. Hai followed her husband to the South. Since then, the typical Thai Binh crab vermicelli soup only remained in her childhood memories.

Tìm vị bún ốc riêu cua gốc Bắc, núp hẻm hơn 40 năm tại Sài Gòn - Ảnh 3.

Mrs. Hai has always kept the family's crab vermicelli soup flavor for more than 40 years - Photo: DANG KHUONG

Living far from home, Mrs. Hai helps her husband raise their children by selling lottery tickets and papaya.

She said: "I noticed many times that people in the South only sell vermicelli soup with tofu, pig's blood, and crab soup. So I decided to bring Northern-style vermicelli soup here. Those who want to eat Northern food come to me, those who want to eat Southern food come to the market."

Her small family pushes a cart filled with the fragrant smell of vermicelli and snail soup along Ky Dong street. Some people drive motorbikes, some ride bicycles, cyclos… to the sidewalk to sit and eat.

Tìm vị bún ốc riêu cua gốc Bắc, núp hẻm hơn 40 năm tại Sài Gòn - Ảnh 4.
Tìm vị bún ốc riêu cua gốc Bắc, núp hẻm hơn 40 năm tại Sài Gòn - Ảnh 5.
Tìm vị bún ốc riêu cua gốc Bắc, núp hẻm hơn 40 năm tại Sài Gòn - Ảnh 6.

Ingredients make the crab vermicelli soup more "attractive" - ​​Photo: HO LAM

Later, she was no longer allowed to sell on the sidewalk, so she had to bring that snail noodle cart to her current small alley, leaving behind many memories.

"If my regular customers don't see me anymore, they keep asking this person or that person. It's a pity, but customers look for me, how can I find them?" - Ms. Hai said.

Morning sells vermicelli with snails, evening sells lottery tickets

When asked if Mrs. Hai had any unforgettable memories associated with the snail noodle cart, she gently told about the difficult time making a living on the street and the special customers.

Ms. Hai humorously confided: "Many times when I push my noodle cart out, it rains. Some people carry pots of noodles, some carry tables, chairs, and tarpaulins and run inside. But then I take them out to sell. By 7-8 pm, they're all sold out."

Or there were also unexpectedly kind guests, making her choke up every time she remembered.

"Every noon I often meet a person cycling to eat bun rieu thieu.

He ate for two months and told me: "I'm in college and have no money. Just sell it to me on credit and I'll pay you back after I graduate." I told him to keep eating.

After two months, he disappeared. I thought I had been scammed. But later, he came back from abroad and paid me back. He also gave me more money," Mrs. Hai emotionally recounted.

Or another time, Ms. Hai agreed to sell a normal bowl of noodles to a student who came to eat, when this person ordered noodles with only vegetables and water for half the price.

Ms. Hai shared: "I just thought I was helping the kids a little because they are still in school. I sell like that, but at night I have another source of income, which is… selling lottery tickets at Tao Dan Park."



Source: https://tuoitre.vn/tim-vi-bun-oc-rieu-cua-goc-bac-nup-hem-hon-40-nam-tai-sai-gon-20241119123516739.htm

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