Pho satay Cho Lon tells a bold cultural story

The Michelin Guide just featured Oryz Saigon's Pho Satay, where Vietnamese pho and Chaozhou Hu Tieu Satay come together in a daring way.

Chef Chris Fong (second from left) - Photo: FBNV

Through the story of Pho Sa Teh by chef Chris Fong (Oryz Saigon - a restaurant on Michelin's Michelin Selected 2024 list), Michelin Guide wants to remind the story of migration, history and cultural exchange.

Untold stories

Born in Singapore to an immigrant family, Chris Fong grew up in a mix of different cultures: Hong Kong, Malaysia and Singapore.

After completing Singapore's mandatory military service, Fong worked in design but soon discovered his passion for food, enrolling in culinary school and learning the craft at André Restaurant (Singapore).

"French cooking techniques are about transforming simple ingredients into something incredibly refined," he says.

Fong went to France for two years to learn the craft and in the process, Asian culinary traditions and flavors gradually emerged in him.

In 2017, he came to Vietnam and his heart remained here.

Sharing with Michelin Guide, Fong said he was "fascinated by Vietnam's vibrant culture and untold stories".

In September 2023, Fong opened Oryz, a fine-dining restaurant that combines traditional culinary culture with modern cooking techniques. Just a few months after its launch, Oryz was listed on the Michelin Guide's recommendation list.

Cho Lon satay pho

Pho satay with rich Southern flavor

Among Oryz Saigon's rotating menu, one standout dish is pho satay, where Vietnamese pho meets Chaozhou satay noodles.

While researching the cuisine of Cho Lon, Fong discovered a noodle shop in Cho Lon that sold a dish called pho satay, which had been around for many years, largely unnoticed by the locals. Fong then repeatedly returned to eat and talk to the shop owner about how to prepare this pho satay.

“The hardest part was perfecting the satay sauce,” he says, “It took me two weeks to develop this sauce.”

"It's a delicate blend of peanuts, garlic and spices, mixed into a thick paste. The consistency has to be just right so it doesn't dilute too much when the broth is added," the chef reveals.

According to Fong, it is this sauce that is the soul of pho satay. "The ratio of peanuts to spices has to be just right," he explains, "if the peanuts overpower the spices, the dish will taste bland."

Oryz Saigon representative commented that Chaozhou satay is not spicy, has more peanuts and is milder in taste. However, the satay pho that he "encountered" in Cho Lon area of ​​Ho Chi Minh City has been modified to suit Vietnamese taste.

“It combines bold spices and Southern herbs, adding a spicy flavor and subtle depth to the dish,” says Chris Fong.

Inspired by Cho Lon, the Pho Sa Te at Oryz Saigon remains true to its roots. Beef simmered in a satay broth (spicy peanut sauce), served with sliced ​​cucumber, basil and pickled garlic - Photo: FBNH

Fong's Secret

At Oryz Saigon, pho satay is served in a hollowed-out onion. The sweetness from the onion adds a subtle flavor to the satay sauce and broth, making it an essential part of the dish.

According to the Michelin Guide, this presentation also reinforces Fong's vision of using ingredients as a vehicle for cultural storytelling, connecting past and present to enhance the dining experience.

Upgraded satay pho at Oryz Saigon - Photo: FBNH

According to the Singaporean chef, in traditional Chinese cooking, specifically Cantonese, ingredients like radish or sugar cane are used to sweeten the broth, bringing a subtle sweetness. Meanwhile, in Vietnamese pho, onions bring a distinct sweetness and depth.

“By encasing pho satay in onions, I wanted to highlight this cultural shift, showcasing how the dish has evolved through migration and assimilation,” says Fong.

He added that when Chinese people migrated to Southeast Asian countries, they brought their culinary traditions with them, evolving and blending them with local ingredients and techniques to create entirely new experiences.

Source: https://tuoitre.vn/pho-sa-te-cho-lon-ke-cau-chuyen-van-hoa-tao-bao-20250107184858639.htm