Linh fish is one of the products that nature gives when the flood season comes.
Waiting for flood season
Every year, when the first heavy rains of the season begin to fall evenly across the delta, people in the West anxiously look forward to the flood season. The flood season usually begins around the 7th lunar month, when the water from the upper Mekong River rises, bringing fertile alluvium to the fields, which is also the time when fishermen are busy working according to the rhythm of the months. For generations, people in the West have been attached to this rule, so in their hearts they cherish a waiting that is difficult to name.
When the flood season comes, it brings with it specialties such as shrimp, fish or rows of bright yellow sesbania trees looming on the riverbank. It is not only the season when the fields are irrigated, but also the season of joy, with the fishing profession of the people. Mr. Chung Thu, residing in Vinh Xuong commune, shared: “Every year, after finishing 2 rice crops, when the water floods the fields, my family prepares fishing gear, mends the nets to make a living following the water. I am preparing fishing gear to continue making a living in the fields during the flood season. Hopefully this year will be a “bumper harvest” season than last year.”
It can be said that linh fish is a “living specialty” of the flood season. Linh fish are small, have smooth bodies, and swim freely in large schools, bringing with them a season of joy and a source of livelihood for many families. Missing linh fish is not only the memory of the dish, but also the memory of the early foggy mornings, the calls of people going to cast nets, set traps, and scoop up fish in the fields. Waiting for linh fish in the flood season is also waiting for the sweetness of the water, waiting for the stories told by the red fire of mothers and sisters after a long, hard day.
Memories of Hometown
Experienced fishermen in the “silver fishing” profession say that catching linh fish is a job that requires patience and dedication to the river. Early in the morning, people row boats along the water, cast nets, set traps, and harvest the first catch of the new day. Linh fish are most abundant in the 8th and 9th lunar months, when the water is full and the fish breed and multiply. Western gourmets often look for young linh fish to braise, cook sour soup, make fish sauce, or fry them, all delicious.
“Not only a dish, linh fish is also associated with the childhood memories of many people in the West. Anyone who grew up in the flooded rice fields will surely not forget the afternoons in the rain with their parents, pulling in fresh linh fish, then cheering when the fish were full, or feeling sad when the fish were scarce and the water was low. The aroma of fish and wild vegetables blend together, creating a warm atmosphere where people gather together, sharing stories of the flood season and simple daily life,” said Ms. Hoa Ly, a resident of Long Xuyen ward, recalling her childhood days in her hometown with her parents.
The special feature of linh fish cuisine lies in the delicate blend of the natural sweetness of the fish, the slight astringency of the sesbania or lotus flowers, the sourness of tamarind, the spicy taste of chili and the aroma of wild vegetables. Anyone, whether a country person or a visitor from the city, can easily be captivated by the flavor that carries both human and rural love.
People in the upstream area of An Giang often wait for the flood season with great hope. When the water comes back, the landscape seems to put on a new coat, people's lives become more bustling; the rural markets are bustling with buyers and sellers, boats of fresh linh fish are anchored at the water's edge. The early return of the flood is always a "happy sign" for the people because that year everyone will surely have a bumper fishing season.
Waiting for the linh fish in the flood season is waiting for a complete part of the soul of the West. It is the harmony between people and nature, between the hardships of everyday life and simple joys. Every flood season passes, the linh fish return as a reminder of perseverance, of the enduring love for the homeland. In fact, it is also waiting for the season of love, the season of a new belief on the river of the homeland. |
Article and photos: PHUONG LAN
Source: https://baoangiang.com.vn/doi-con-ca-linh-mua-nuoc-noi-a424725.html
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