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Innovating the five-panel ao dai from Western art inspiration

In the two recently launched ao dai collections named Flowers and Fragrance of Time, artist Nam Tuyen took inspiration from Western art to create a skillful and delicate combination.

Báo Sài Gòn Giải phóngBáo Sài Gòn Giải phóng28/08/2025

On the afternoon of August 28, artisan Nam Tuyen organized a ceremony to introduce two collections of five-panel ao dai Fall - Winter 2025, with ao dai designs for both men and women.

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Models showcase new designs in two collections. Photo: Pham Hoan

Inspired by Western decorative arts - where paintings and abstract, evocative colors play a central role, the highlight of this innovation is that artisan Nam Tuyen has incorporated into the ao ngu than imaginative embossed floral motifs, symbolizing the beauty of nature and the desire for new, poetic things in Neverland, where only children live.

On each flap of the dress, flowers and silk blend together, soft, natural and vibrant with every movement of the wearer.

According to artisan Nam Tuyen, the process of remaking the old five-panel ao dai into something new requires the designer to find the core elements and essence of the dress. Once thoroughly researched, the new creation will not lose its roots.

“Creating and innovating the ao dai is the same - it must be based on the core elements. If you create too much and lose the traditional features of the ao dai and then use it as a name, I'm afraid it's not appropriate,” said artisan Nam Tuyen.

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Artisan Nam Tuyen shares details about each ao dai design. Photo: Pham Hoan

In which, the collection The Petals is the sublimation of the five-panel ao dai in a new artistic space, where traditional beauty blends with romantic, symbolic beauty.

The collection Fragrance of Time is like a melody of shapes and depth of creation. Artisan Nam Tuyen found in classical Western art the harmony of lines and folds, and brought to the five-panel ao dai the graceful, luxurious and elegant shapes.

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Some designs in the Petals collection. Photo: Duy Le

In this collection, each sleeve is stylized like a flower, interwoven with delicate embroidery details. Traditional collars are replaced with graceful long bows.

The fusion of classic Western lines and traditional Vietnamese materials has created designs that are both rich in identity and full of the breath of modern life, like the flow of time still echoing and harmonizing in every needle and thread, in the creativity of the artisan.

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And the innovation in the collection Fragrance of Time. Photo: Duy Le

Although carrying different emotional streams, both collections share the same spirit of honoring the Vietnamese five-panel ao dai in dialogue with the times, so that the ao dai is not only a costume, but also a living heritage, always moving and shining in today's cultural flow.

Artisan Nam Tuyen (real name Pham Van Tuyen) was born in 1969 in Thai Binh (now Hung Yen). He taught himself sewing since he was young, then moved to Ho Chi Minh City to start his career in the 90s. Before being known as an ao dai artisan, he founded the wedding dress brand A Soen Bridal in the late 90s and quickly conquered the domestic and international markets. He is currently a member of the Executive Committee of the Ho Chi Minh City Ao Dai Association for the first term (2023-2028), and the Head of the Ho Chi Minh City Ao Dai Cultural Heritage Association.

Source: https://www.sggp.org.vn/cach-tan-ao-dai-ngu-than-tu-cam-hung-nghe-thuat-phuong-tay-post810693.html


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