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Steady rain, fried potatoes, dried fish...

Việt NamViệt Nam09/12/2023

Sometimes, remembering my childhood, searching through old memories, I see the image of my mother, of myself, and the dishes of those cold winter days, which stir up endless nostalgia...

My mother often jokingly said that it was the “specialty” of winter in our hometown. And I can’t count how many childhood winters I went through, from unfamiliar to familiar with those smells in my mother’s meals. Until now, every time I think about it, it still remains an unforgettable memory.

Steady rain, fried potatoes, dried fish...

From simple, easy-to-find ingredients, fried potatoes have become a rustic, familiar dish in people's lives.

I still remember very clearly, every year, around the 10th lunar month, it started to rain heavily, and it continued like that all winter. It was also the rough sea season so people rarely went fishing. There were only a few markets but the price of food was extremely expensive. Because of understanding that “law of development”, my mother often prepared food reserves for the winter very early.

Since summer, my mother took advantage of buying sweet potatoes when people had just brought them from the fields, choosing a sunny day to cut the potatoes and dry them in the sun for three or four days to make them crispy enough and to prevent termites before putting them in jars for storage.

On normal days, the pot of sweet potatoes sits quietly in a corner of the kitchen, rarely noticed. It is not until drizzling, windy days that the pot of sweet potatoes truly shows its value. In the time of “rice and cinnamon”, to fill the children’s growing stomachs, every time the pot of rice is cooked, the mother often adds a handful of sweet potatoes to steam. Of course, the sweet potatoes are usually the parents’ portion, the white rice is for the children. But more commonly, the mother makes skewered sweet potatoes for the children to eat for breakfast before school or as a snack when the two main meals are not often enough.

Steady rain, fried potatoes, dried fish...

From the way of using chopsticks to cross hands when preparing this dish, people commonly call it by the very popular name "crossed potato".

When cooking potatoes, my mother often added black beans or a little peanuts and cane sugar to make the pot of potatoes more flavorful. When the potatoes were cooked, she used chopsticks to beat them back and forth until the mixture was smooth and smooth enough to be taken out and eaten. Perhaps because of the way chopsticks were used to beating the dish cross-handed when preparing it, people called it by the very common name of "crossed potatoes".

The mackerel and herring were also bought by my mother in the right season from the beginning of summer so the price was quite cheap. Continue the cleaning steps, dry thoroughly but the storage process is more elaborate and careful to avoid cockroaches, rats and mold. Every time they are processed, the dried fish are usually soaked in rice water to soften and clean all the dirt. Add a little lard to the pan with a mixture of garlic, chili, and good fish sauce to braise the fish; on more "luxurious" meals, add diced pork belly to cook with.

Steady rain, fried potatoes, dried fish...

Braised dried fish is a great dish to go with rice, especially on cold, rainy days. Photo: internet.

During the rainy season, the wild vegetables in our garden grow very quickly. I picked a handful of mixed vegetables to boil and dip in the thick broth of the braised fish pot. Needless to say, the hungry children were very hungry when the rice tray and the pot of braised dried fish were served. In the cold winter weather, I am sure there is no dish that is as delicious, convenient and economical as this.

Remembering the flood seasons, the whole family took shelter together, my mother did not forget to bring along the "savings" from the rainy season as an essential necessity for the whole family to get through the difficult days.

I miss the warm and loving winters of my childhood that have passed. Nowadays, my daily meals have become less of a worry, and there are even more dishes. Sometimes, remembering my childhood, searching through old memories, I see the image of my mother, of myself, and the dishes of those cold winter days, which stir up endless nostalgia...

Ngo The Lam


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